Karl Lagerfeld obituary
The designer Karl Lagerfeld, who has died aged 85, explored and exploited couture, ready-to-wear and even mass-market fashion for more than 60 years. He had a genius for visual quotation and allusion, impersonation and pastiche, especially at Chanel, the fashion house he headed for more than three decades, and it made him the first postmodern fashionmeister.
译者注： The Bahlmann family name was found in the USA, and the UK between 1880 and 1920. 此处意指妈妈的身世。
The fees they paid, plus the extra Lagerfeld accumulated through using his antennae to deal in antiques and art, funded his high visibility: attention was paid to his appearance, possessions and the premises he stashed them in. Andy Warhol borrowed a Lagerfeld apartment as the venue for a movie, L’Amour (1973), and Lagerfeld adopted Warhol’s creed of superficiality, although behind that facade lay a wide and deep consumption of art and literature. Lagerfeld and the Puerto Rican fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez had a Parisian salon, in the arts not fashion sense, early in the 70s.
Lopez and his circle were bankrolled by Lagerfeld, who paid for clothes and presents – Lagerfeld gave, without stint, personally chosen gifts to favourites and as business offerings. A Chloé perfume in 1975 increased his income and his flamboyance flared, but his famous fan, tied-back hair and wild garments never impeded the flow of reliably saleable designs for clients. Lagerfeld was the German industrial miracle.
Edition 7L’s bestseller was The Karl Lagerfeld Diet (2002), triggered by his 40kg weight loss: he had denied himself Coca-Cola, cheese and chocolate cake to emerge from the black tent garb of his more corpulent era and wear the slimmest Dior. He dropped the fan, although the dark glasses remained, as did the fingerless gloves to hide the mechanic’s hands of which he was ashamed, because his mother had loathed them.
Yet, with Chanel company money, he secured the future of six ancient Parisian craft workshops and designed extra, beautiful, collections to show off their slow handiwork. The newest, global nouveaux riches – “rich as air” he said, not kindly – failed to impress him, even if his couture shows expanded into spectacles more operatic than his 1980 designs for Berlioz’s Les Troyens at La Scala, Milan. Last December the backdrop was an Egyptian temple in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, but he did not appear at the January show in Paris.
背景知识：香奈儿高级手工坊系列 (Chanel Métiers D'Arts collection) 从2002年开始，卡尔·拉格菲尔德 (Karl Lagerfeld) 每年都会选择一个城市推出，至今CHANEL高级手工坊系列 (Chanel Métiers D'Arts collection) 已走过巴黎、蒙特卡洛、纽约、东京、伦敦、莫斯科、上海等7个城市。希望借这种方式能让香奈儿 (Chanel) 旗下七家法国传统手工艺作坊，从羽毛、钉珠、珠宝到鞋子（纽扣坊Desrues、羽饰坊Lemarié、刺绣坊Lesage、鞋履坊Massaro、制帽坊Michel、金银饰坊Goossens 及花饰坊Guillet），让七种古老的精湛时装手工艺能够得以传承并发扬光大，也向为高级时装发展默默工作的手工艺大师们献上一份敬意。
Lagerfeld owned a sequence of Parisian apartments, including a large chunk of an 18th-century mansion in Saint-Germain, plus residences in Monte Carlo, Biarritz and Manhattan, not always resided in. He bought and sold the Chateau de Penho?t in Brittany, and a mansion near his childhood home (also sold, the landscape not being as he imagined it).
couture house 高级时装屋
unravelled seams and hems无缝、下摆散开
couture, ready-to-wear, mass-market fashion 高级定制、成衣、大众服装
pelts/ furs 毛皮