拉格菲尔德(卫报 | 卡尔·拉格菲尔德讣告)

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所属分类:百科

拉格菲尔德

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拉格菲尔德的名字即便对于时装圈之外的人也耳熟能详,白发、墨镜、手套,镜头下的他永远高贵冷酷。他将Chanel打造成国际时尚帝国,为Chloé等时装品牌开创全新风潮。他创意不断,灵感永不枯竭,时装、珠宝、摄影、写作面面俱到,法语、德语、英语、意文信手拈来,妙语连珠甚至打造了“老佛爷语录”。就是这样永远站在聚光灯下的传奇人物,让人们已然忘记他生是凡人。2019年2月19号,老佛爷传奇落幕,留下一部戛然而止的交响曲,让我们回望那些传奇瞬间,缅怀这位为我们编织出无数梦幻的时尚帝王。
译者:Cassiel
校对:Ailsa/ 东方未明

Karl Lagerfeld obituary
见证香奈儿蜕变为国际名牌的时装设计师
The designer Karl Lagerfeld, who has died aged 85, explored and exploited couture, ready-to-wear and even mass-market fashion for more than 60 years. He had a genius for visual quotation and allusion, impersonation and pastiche, especially at Chanel, the fashion house he headed for more than three decades, and it made him the first postmodern fashionmeister.
设计师卡尔·拉格菲尔德逝世,享年85岁。60多年来,拉格菲尔德广泛涉猎,深耕于高级时装、成衣甚至大众时尚领域。他擅长用视觉语言表意,善于模仿整合他人的精髓,天分在Chanel表现得淋漓尽致。拉格菲尔德带领Chanel精品部走过30余载,也因此成为首位后现代时装大师。

译者注: The Bahlmann family name was found in the USA, and the UK between 1880 and 1920. 此处意指妈妈的身世。

背景知识:Fendi设计风格以高品质的毛皮见长,在皮革皮草服装领域居于领导地位。拉格菲尔德对毛皮进行革新处理,如将真正的动物毛皮处理成有着仿制毛皮的外观效果;在毛皮面料上打上大量细小的洞眼以减轻大衣的重量便于穿着;毛皮的多彩染色处理等?其创新设计还包括用水貂皮作边饰的牛仔面料大衣,选用如松鼠皮?雪貂皮等,用毛皮进行大胆设计

The fees they paid, plus the extra Lagerfeld accumulated through using his antennae to deal in antiques and art, funded his high visibility: attention was paid to his appearance, possessions and the premises he stashed them in. Andy Warhol borrowed a Lagerfeld apartment as the venue for a movie, L’Amour (1973), and Lagerfeld adopted Warhol’s creed of superficiality, although behind that facade lay a wide and deep consumption of art and literature. Lagerfeld and the Puerto Rican fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez had a Parisian salon, in the arts not fashion sense, early in the 70s.

 
Lopez and his circle were bankrolled by Lagerfeld, who paid for clothes and presents – Lagerfeld gave, without stint, personally chosen gifts to favourites and as business offerings. A Chloé perfume in 1975 increased his income and his flamboyance flared, but his famous fan, tied-back hair and wild garments never impeded the flow of reliably saleable designs for clients. Lagerfeld was the German industrial miracle.

 
Edition 7L’s bestseller was The Karl Lagerfeld Diet (2002), triggered by his 40kg weight loss: he had denied himself Coca-Cola, cheese and chocolate cake to emerge from the black tent garb of his more corpulent era and wear the slimmest Dior. He dropped the fan, although the dark glasses remained, as did the fingerless gloves to hide the mechanic’s hands of which he was ashamed, because his mother had loathed them.
 

 
Yet, with Chanel company money, he secured the future of six ancient Parisian craft workshops and designed extra, beautiful, collections to show off their slow handiwork. The newest, global nouveaux riches – “rich as air” he said, not kindly – failed to impress him, even if his couture shows expanded into spectacles more operatic than his 1980 designs for Berlioz’s Les Troyens at La Scala, Milan. Last December the backdrop was an Egyptian temple in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, but he did not appear at the January show in Paris.

背景知识:香奈儿高级手工坊系列 (Chanel Métiers D'Arts collection) 从2002年开始,卡尔·拉格菲尔德 (Karl Lagerfeld) 每年都会选择一个城市推出,至今CHANEL高级手工坊系列 (Chanel Métiers D'Arts collection) 已走过巴黎、蒙特卡洛、纽约、东京、伦敦、莫斯科、上海等7个城市。希望借这种方式能让香奈儿 (Chanel) 旗下七家法国传统手工艺作坊,从羽毛、钉珠、珠宝到鞋子(纽扣坊Desrues、羽饰坊Lemarié、刺绣坊Lesage、鞋履坊Massaro、制帽坊Michel、金银饰坊Goossens 及花饰坊Guillet),让七种古老的精湛时装手工艺能够得以传承并发扬光大,也向为高级时装发展默默工作的手工艺大师们献上一份敬意。

Lagerfeld owned a sequence of Parisian apartments, including a large chunk of an 18th-century mansion in Saint-Germain, plus residences in Monte Carlo, Biarritz and Manhattan, not always resided in. He bought and sold the Chateau de Penho?t in Brittany, and a mansion near his childhood home (also sold, the landscape not being as he imagined it).
 

【时装类词汇】
fashion house精品部 
couture house 高级时装屋
Mood board设计师工作板
Art deco装饰艺术
camellia山茶花
tweeds粗花呢
quilted bags菱格包
seams侧缝
unravelled seams and hems无缝、下摆散开
couture, ready-to-wear, mass-market fashion 高级定制、成衣、大众服装
pelts/ furs 毛皮
Instamatics傻瓜相机
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译者说明:
在翻译本文时,查阅了很多平行文本,在笔记和背景知识上也尽量补充完整,有所突破,希望你能感受到我们的用心。如有疏漏和建议,敬请指出,欢迎交流。交流方式:[email protected]

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